"mkbruin, Atlas VP" (mkbruin)
07/18/2017 at 15:56 • Filed to: None
2
10|
"mkbruin, Atlas VP" (mkbruin)
07/18/2017 at 15:56 • Filed to: None | 2
| 10 |
New toy!!!! Teach me how not to screw up my cars.
I got a cutting pad, a finishing pad, and some terry bonnets. I have Megs Ultimate Compound and Collonite 845.
I am assuming cutting with megs, wax with the finishing, and terry to polish the wax. Do I need a polishing step between the cut and the wax? If so, what to use?
Looking for scratch removal for sale prep or to clean scuffs off the minivan, not looking for concourse prep.
TheHondaBro
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 15:59 |
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Gonna polish your Honda Firebird?
crowmolly
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 16:02 |
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Hopefully the DA gears are metal and not plastic.
Too soon?
SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 16:02 |
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I learned how to do it on a project car that the paint was already fucked on and am glad I did, because I sanded through the paint in several spots. I’d recommend getting a car that no one cares about and that’s better off in a crusher anyway like a Plymouth Firebird so that it’s no loss if you mess up.
Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 16:06 |
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Ultimate Compound is barely a compound. It’s a minor, minor step more aggressive than a polish. You’ll be fine going from it direct to wax. If you’re wanting to do any correction you’ll need some way, way more aggressive tools. DAs are only really good for extremely light swirling and hologramming.
KevlarRx7
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 16:20 |
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Keep it moving and don’t stay in one place, and keep both hands on the bugger.
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 16:21 |
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From the Same Meguiars, I really like the M105 and M205 combo. Those do some decent polishing work. Much better than the Ultimate Compound. Somewhat expensive but worth it I think.
Bob Loblaw Made Me Make a Phoney Phone Call to Edward Rooney
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 16:22 |
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A DA polisher is pretty tough to mess up with. Edges are a concern and you never want to take off more clear than you have to, but don’t be afraid of it.
Here was my old process back in the day for non-paint correction. A bit of a simplified process I adapted from the detailer I worked for:
1. Cutting pad (Meguiar’s red pad)+ cutting compound (Meguiar’s M105 if I recall) to cut light scratches. Anything deeper will need something more aggressive. High speed, medium pressure. Work a few square feet at a time.
2. Polishing pad (Meguiar’s bright yellow pad) + polish (Meguiar’s Machine Glaze or Speed Glaze) to clean up haze/swirls left behind and provide a long-lasting glossy texture. Medium speed, light pressure. Can work slightly bigger spaces than the cutting compound, but not too much.
3. Wax pad (Meguiar’s beige) + wax (Meguiar’s high tech yellow #26). Low speed, light pressure. Do the whole car in one go, let it go hazy, and remove by hand.
Die-Trying
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 17:34 |
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did you buy a compression tester for the Trans Am? you know, for progress...........
Nisman
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 17:48 |
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Make sure to use Drive Clean videos as well as autogeek as resources!
Frank Grimes
> mkbruin, Atlas VP
07/18/2017 at 18:41 |
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start at a low speed so it doesnt fling off the compoung and use ear plugs, you will know why when you use it for the first time.